SPECIAL REPORT: Storm surfing during El Nio

Central Coast residents are bracing for what’s expected to be a stormy winter: repairing roofs, clearing drains, and stocking up on supplies.

But some have been getting ready in a different way: rinsing wet suits and waxing boards.

We’re talking about surfers, excited for the big swells that could be coming and looking for the opportunity to push their limits.

“There is always going to be people paddling out during big swells,” said Central Coast surfer Rick Burgin.

Long-time surfer and surf coach, Barry Green, says a lot of physical and mental preparation goes into surfing big swells.

“Without a lot of experience and skill, it’s kind of haphazard and rolling the dice a little bit,” Green said. “And with more experience, it’s very methodical, strategic, and waiting for your right wave.”

But serious surfers are looking for a challenge, and the winter months can bring swells up to 12 feet or more.

“If the opportunity was there you know you always did just to get that nice big wave,” said Steve Townsend who has been surfing for more than 50 years.

“Winter, it gets a little bit more consistent, and colder, so then you have more of, that guy who’s looking for those big waves and challenging themselves,” said James Antonelli with Freeline Surf Shop.

No matter how much experience a surfer has, he or she is never completely in control, they’re just more aware of their surroundings and understand how to react to whats going on around them. But there is a reason why many surfers paddle out.

“The viseral connection with that wave energy. That’s what they call the stoke, that’s what gets people really excited,” said Green.

While it may be exciting, winter storms also wash a lot of debris into the ocean so surfers are advised to keep a look out for logs, branches, and other floating debris.