Monterey and Santa Cruz counties beachgoers urged to use caution

“I’m more afraid of the sharks than the waves,” said surfer Eli Ledwith.

Westerly swells in the double digits sent people flocking to Santa Cruz to catch waves that weren’t your average ankle slappers.

“They’re hard to catch,” said surfer Daniel Saxton. “But if you get one, it’s just like an elevator drop and super fun.”

Others came to watch the waves crash and hear them roar.

“They’re beautiful and they make really nice noise and they’re really relaxing,” said Sarah Strober of Palo Alto, California.

But a combination of powerful forerunner waves, local breakers up to 20 feet and rip currents caused the coast guard and National Weather service to urge beach goers, surfers and boaters on the Central Coast to be extra careful.

“Today the waves are way too big if you’ve never surfed,” said Robby Pappas, owner Cowels Surf Shop.

Officials say the hazardous conditions can sweep unsuspecting beachgoers into the sea.

“The currents are especially dangerous if you get pulled into an area that you’re not familiar with,” said Saxton. “Then you can get smashed on the cliffs and stuff.”

Locals familiar with the coastline say people should have a plan for getting back to shore.

“Beginners, you gotta watch where the waves are breaking which is called a point, you gotta paddle around,” said Pappas. “A lot of beginners try to go straight at the whitewash instead of trying to go around the waves.”

It may also help to watch the pros.

“Ask what their experience is like if they’re getting out of the water,” said Saxton. “Usually you can get a sense of whether it’s safe or not.

Officials also say never turn your back on the ocean.

Parents are advised to keep a close eye on their little ones.

Pet owners, don’t throw the ball out too far in rough surf.