One of India’s greatest food cities is finally getting the global attention it deserves

By Poonam Binayak, CNN

Lucknow, India (CNN) — A plate of buffalo galawati kebabs arrives at the table at Tunday Kababi, a famous restaurant in Phool Wali Gali, a narrow lane in Lucknow’s old quarter.

Diners tear off pieces of paratha, a flat bread, and scoop up the tender, melt-in-your-mouth meat. Nearby, cooks continuously shape and shallow-fry fresh batches of kebabs.

It’s a scene that has played out every day for generations in a city many Indians consider one of the country’s greatest culinary capitals.

Yet beyond this South Asian nation’s borders, Lucknow has remained largely absent from global conversations about food, overshadowed by destinations such as Delhi and Mumbai despite being the historic center of Awadhi cuisine.

But word is finally out globally, making some hopeful it could lead to a greater appreciation of this unique culinary tradition.

In October 2025, UNESCO named Lucknow — the capital of Uttar Pradesh state in northern India — a Creative City of Gastronomy, recognizing its long-standing culinary traditions and their continued use across the city today.

It’s only the second Indian city after Hyderabad (2019) to receive the designation, joining more than 400 cities in more than 100 countries worldwide.

A cuisine shaped in courtly kitchens

Awadhi cuisine is named after a historic region in present-day Uttar Pradesh, which was known as Oudh during the British colonial period.

Originally part of the Mughal Empire, it grew increasingly autonomous as the empire weakened in the early 18th century. In 1775, Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula shifted the capital from Faizabad to Lucknow, establishing it as the center of power until the British annexation in 1856.

It was here, in the royal kitchens of the Nawabs, that Awadhi cuisine took shape between the 18th and mid-19th centuries. These kitchens drew on culinary traditions already present in the Mughal court — itself influenced by Persian cooking — and refined them using local ingredients from the fertile Indo-Gangetic plains.

The result was a cuisine that balanced courtly technique with regional character.

“The biggest misunderstanding is that Awadhi cuisine is ‘heavy.’ It isn’t,” Chef Ranveer Brar, a restaurateur and ‘MasterChef India’ judge, tells CNN Travel. “It is delicate. It is nuanced. It is built on restraint. The richness people speak about is not about excess — it is about technique, balance and patience.”

Executive Chef Rohit Joshi of the Taj Mahal Lucknow echoes this distinction.

“The emphasis is on aroma, controlled spice use, and texture — what culinary historians describe as nazakat (delicacy) and nafasat (subtlety),” he adds.

“The idea is not to overwhelm but to harmonize.”

Techniques that define the cuisine

While often grouped under the broad label of “Mughlai,” Awadhi cuisine is unique. Mughlai originated in the imperial kitchens of Delhi and Agra, known for rich gravies and bold spices, whereas Awadhi cuisine developed later in the courts of Lucknow.

If there is one defining feature of Awadhi cuisine, it’s technique.

The best-known dish is dum pukht, a method of slow cooking in a sealed pot. Ingredients are placed inside a heavy-bottomed vessel (handi), the lid sealed — traditionally with dough — and cooked over low heat. Steam remains trapped inside, allowing flavors to develop gradually while retaining moisture.

The technique is often associated with the reign of Asaf-ud-Daula in the late 18th century, when the region faced a severe famine. As part of a work-for-food program, large quantities of rice, meat and vegetables were cooked in sealed pots to feed laborers building the Bara Imambara tomb complex. According to culinary lore, the aromas from these slow-cooked pots drew the Nawab’s attention, leading to the refinement of the dum method in royal kitchens.

Whether apocryphal or not, the story reflects how dum cooking became central to the region’s culinary identity. In the 20th century, the method was revived in restaurant kitchens by the late chef Imtiaz Qureshi, who brought dum pukht cooking into modern dining at ITC Hotels, an Indian hospitality company, including Dum Pukht Restaurant in New Delhi.

But beyond technique, Awadhi cuisine is defined by control — particularly in how flavor is built.

Spices are layered gradually during cooking rather than added all at once, allowing dishes to develop depth without becoming overpowering. Whole spices are often introduced early to form a base, while more delicate elements are added later to preserve their character.

In some preparations, cooks use potli masala — a small muslin bundle of whole spices that is steeped into gravies or rice dishes and removed before serving — to infuse flavor while keeping the texture smooth.

Aromatics — saffron, kewra (an extract distilled from the fragrant pandanus flower) and rose water — are used sparingly.

“The use of kewra and rose water in savory dishes challenges Western flavor expectations, where floral notes are typically reserved for desserts,” says chef Joshi.

Signature dishes

Awadhi cuisine’s most recognisable dishes are its kebabs — and yes, their significance lies as much in technique as in flavor.

The galouti kebab, made from finely minced meat and a complex blend of spices, is known for its soft, almost melt-in-the-mouth texture. It is widely believed to have been created for an aging Nawab who could no longer chew tougher meats — a story that, while not definitively documented, reflects the cuisine’s emphasis on texture.

“The galouti kebab demonstrates a technical emphasis on emulsification and fine mincing, often incorporating raw papaya as a tenderizer,” says Joshi. “This reflects a deliberate pursuit of softness and uniform mouthfeel.”

A classic place to try it is Tunday Kababi, an over-120-year-old eatery in the old quarter, where the galouti kebab (buffalo meat) is prepared using a closely guarded mix of spices said to number 160.

Kakori kebabs, named after a town near Lucknow, are another variation — shaped along skewers and cooked over charcoal. Other varieties include shami kebabs, made with minced meat and lentils, and boti kebabs, consisting of marinated meat grilled over an open flame.

Rice dishes are equally central. Among them, Awadhi biryani is perhaps the most widely recognized. Although biryani is cooked across South Asia, regional styles vary considerably. The Lucknow version is lighter and more aromatic than its Hyderabadi counterpart. Meat is cooked separately in a spiced broth before being layered with partially cooked rice and finished using the dum method. The result is subtle — each grain separate, infused with aroma rather than dominated by spice. For authentic taste, Idrees Biryani, in the bustling Chowk area, serving since 1968, is the place to go.

Breads such as sheermal — slightly sweet and enriched with milk and saffron — and roomali roti, soft and handkerchief-thin, complete the meal.

For Awadhi cuisine in a fine-dining setting, Oudhyana at Taj Mahal, Lucknow, and Azrak at Saraca Hotel are the go-to choices.

Beyond kebabs: The overlooked table

Lucknow’s cuisine extends far beyond its most famous dishes.

“There is a rich and diverse vegetarian tradition that is only now gaining wider recognition,” says Atif Anzar, founder of Lucknow Heritage Walks.

“From the desi ghee kachoris (deep-fried bread stuffed with spiced lentils) of Sewak Ram and Net Ram to winter specialties like Kali Gajar ka Halwa (black carrot pudding), Malai Makhan (cloud-like dessert made with milk cream and sugar) and Malai Gilori (delicate folds of clotted cream filled with dried fruits) at Ram Asrey, vegetarian food in Lucknow is seasonal, refined and deeply rooted in local traditions.”

“We hosted Lucknow’s first dedicated vegetarian food walk in Chowk, and many participants were surprised by the sheer variety,” says Anzar. “It’s a side of the cuisine that has long been overshadowed but truly deserves equal appreciation.”

This diversity is shaped not only by royal kitchens but also by communities such as Kayasthas and Baniyas, whose vegetarian cooking traditions form an important part of Lucknow’s culinary landscape.

And then there’s Lucknow’s chaat, the city’s famous tangy, spicy, and sweet street snacks. From aloo tikki (potato patty) and paani ke batashe (pani puri in Mumbai and golgappas in Delhi) to dahi bhalla (lentil dumplings in yogurt), these dishes are celebrated for their balance of flavors, textures and aromas. Places like Shukla Chaat House and Royal Cafe in Hazratganj are favorites among locals and visitors alike.

A living culinary tradition

What ultimately distinguishes Lucknow — and underpins its UNESCO recognition — is that these culinary practices continue to be actively followed.

In neighborhoods such as Chowk and Aminabad, many establishments still rely on traditional methods: slow cooking over charcoal, hand-ground spices and recipes passed down through generations.

At the same time, much of the cuisine survives in homes.

“Home kitchens were and still are the heartbeat of Awadhi cuisine,” says Chef Sheeba Iqbal, who runs a home-dining experience called Aab-o-Daana. “Women passed down recipes, innovating and adapting, making food a labor of love, and keeping the culture alive through generations.”

In recent years, curated dining experiences and smaller initiatives have begun bringing attention to food traditionally cooked in Lucknow’s homes — much of which remains underrepresented in restaurant menus.

Yet there is also concern about loss.

“Some hidden gems are fading away — dishes like khichda (a savory porridge), zarda (sweet rice pudding) and khameeri roti (saffron-infused bread),” Chef Iqbal says. “Community-led initiatives and food festivals can help bring these traditional dishes back to the forefront.”

What the UNESCO recognition changes

The UNESCO designation brings visibility — but also responsibility.

“The real opportunity lies in preserving technique, not just popular dishes,” says chef Brar. “Recognition can encourage documentation, structured training, and renewed interest among younger cooks — while also expanding the narrative beyond royal cuisine to include everyday food culture.”

Tourism is already responding.

“Earlier, only a small number of visitors came specifically for its food,” says Anzar. “Now most travelers want a curated food experience. They are moving beyond just famous outlets to exploring neighborhood spots and even home dining experiences.”

Visitors, he adds, are increasingly interested in the context behind the food — family recipes, techniques and cultural meaning — not just the dishes themselves.

From Lucknow to the world

As global interest in regional cuisines grows, Awadhi food is finding new audiences.

“We are at a time when authenticity matters again,” says chef Brar. “There is a global curiosity about origin stories — how food evolved and why it tastes the way it does. Awadhi cuisine represents sophistication without noise; its spice profile is layered rather than aggressive, which makes it travel well internationally.”

Minor adaptations are sometimes necessary for presentation or format, but the essence must remain intact.

“For Awadhi cuisine to remain globally relevant, it must preserve its core techniques while adapting presentation and accessibility,” says chef Joshi. “Heritage without evolution becomes static; evolution without technique becomes dilution.”

For many visitors, the appeal lies precisely in this balance.

“They are often surprised by the use of aroma and the variety beyond kebabs and biryani,” says Anzar. “It becomes more than just a meal — it becomes an immersive cultural experience.”

That combination of history, technique and continuity is what sets Lucknow apart.

And it is what UNESCO recognized: not just a cuisine of the past, but one that continues to evolve — quietly, precisely and on its own terms.

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